Article Published: 18 January
2009
by Silvio Mattacchione
www.silvio-co.com
Health or its absence is the key to all results,
good or bad! Regardless of the quality of your pigeons, if you are
unable to keep them healthy they are doomed to perennially poor
results. I believe it is safe to say that the person who has pigeons
of lesser quality but has learned to keep them close to the top
of their health cycle will outperform a group of superior pigeons
whose critical health is little understood and has, unfortunately,
been allowed to lapse.
Though this definitely is true, most fanciers
haven't a clue as to what does or does not constitute good health.
Good health in a racing pigeon is a 365-day activity. The old
adage is in fact true: "You only get out what you put in!"
Most fanciers get excited prior to racing old
and young birds. Once this is over, the birds take a back seat
until next spring. Ah, yes, there is always next year! Hope springs
eternal. or does it?
Well, in fact it doesn't! Unless these fanciers
have a massive overhaul of their attitudes, they do not have any
chance at all of ever improving. Pigeon keeping (all bird keeping,
no, the keeping of all living animals) is a hands-on activity.
You learn by doing, first and foremost. You also learn by listening,
by reading, and by observing; but I guarantee that you never learn
by talking, and harping, and pontificating. You know the guys
I mean! They let you know that they have forgotten more than you
will ever know. Well, a sieve has really never been my idea of
the perfect repository of the world's knowledge on racing pigeons!
My partner, Jim McLean, always states that unfortunately, "You
become what you are around." How can such a simple statement
be so profound! Here is a very simple rule to live by: If you
cannot say something good, bite your tongue and refrain from saying
anything at all!
Our topsy-turvy world has always gotten things
confused and it's no different in our own pigeon sport. We always
assume that those who do the best also know the most and can teach
the rest. This is rarely the case. In the real world, the great
coach or teacher is usually the man or woman who could not physically
achieve perfection, but who in turn strove to learn all they could
so that they could pass it on to all those who did have the ability
and could benefit from their own efforts.
In the past I have assisted many fanciers to
achieve better results than had, for them, hitherto been the case.
Very few ever acknowledge where the info originated, and like
the sieve, they have a tendency to lose what it is that they are
supposed to hold.
They Must Be Kept Clean
First and foremost your birds must be kept clean.
Scrape the loft at least once per day and if you can, twice. The
loft must be dry. It must be free of vermin, all vermin. If you
can smell mouse, you have already lost! The loft should house
less birds, never more. The loft should be adequately ventilated.
The water should be changed ever day. Feed should never be present
after the birds have eaten. Adequate quantities of minerals, grit,
oyster shell, salt, etc. should always be present.
Stop Exchanging Birds
Health cannot be achieved if you are constantly
exchanging pigeons with all and sundry. Once you have a colony
of birds, work with them and avoid the temptation of always bringing
in other birds. The constant exchange of birds is a sure-fire
way to insure disaster. Remember that everyone thinks their birds
and management are excellent, but the reality is that they have
not got a clue. In most cases, the greater the pomposity, the
less the ability. Actually, in most cases it's an inverse proportion!
Bio-security is a Must!
Keep visitors out of you lofts. Who knows where
they have been and what they will expose your birds to? As simple
as these concepts are, they are in fact the key to any bio-security
system.
It really is hilarious to imagine that the average
chicken farmer (either layer or grower) goes to a greater extent
to protect his flock from contamination than most racing pigeon
fanciers do!
Pretty easy concepts, don't you think? Keep
them clean, keep them fed and watered, keep them free of contaminates,
do not trade birds, keep your colony isolated as much as possible,
keep visitors out of your lofts. You are 90% of the way to success.
Drug Versus Antibiotic
Oh, let's not forget that we should also understand
the difference between a drug and an antibiotic. Yes, yes, I can
already hear the smart remarks. Well, an antibiotic is by most
considered a drug, but a drug is not necessarily an antibiotic!
An antibiotic works by suppressing the immune system, a drug per
se does not affect the immune system at all. So you see there
is a real difference. There are hundreds of fanciers misusing
antibiotics like Baytril. They attempt to use this 3rd generation
antibiotic as a performance enhancer. That is, you use the product,
it suppresses the immune system, then as the birds come off it
there is a slingshot effect as the immune system seems to go beyond
the norm, and bingo, super health. Or is it? No, actually a sure-fire
ticket to disaster! Do not use these mega antibiotics unless you
have done adequate testing with your avian vet! In most cases
less extreme older antibiotics will more than serve your pigeons'
health needs.
Keep Canker and Cocci Under Control
Generally speaking, you need to keep canker
and cocci under control. You will find that by treating your birds
every 6-8 weeks throughout the year (you need not worry if the
parents are pumping youngsters as it will in no way harm them),
neither of these two conditions will ever be of concern again.
Ridzol will take care of the canker and Amperol will more than
suffice for cocci. These two products can be safely used together.
The dosage is 1/2 teaspoon of Ridzol plus 12.55 cc of Amperol
per gallon of water. You would use these together for 3-5 days
depending on the original count. Remember that both of these organisms
are always present in the pigeon. The point is not to eradicate
but only to keep at a manageable level that does not adversely
effect performance. Remember neither of these drugs are antibiotics.
Internal and external parasites can easily be
controlled with Ivomec. Three drops down the throat and no more
problems with either.
Sixty days prior to races you can treat the
entire race team with Amoxicillin capsules, dosage 5-8 500 mg
capsules per gallon of water for a full ten days. The change in
the birds is exceptional. This is an especially good idea if you
are handling a large number of out-of-area birds for some race
or another. Yes, this is the same antibiotic that your children
often take.
If the need arises, Vetisulid can be used to
treat for E. coli. The dosage is 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water
for 3-5 days. 2/3-3/4 teaspoons for 7-10 days also eliminates
cocci. Often an elevated E. coli count will certainly mean reduced
performance from your birds.
Once Races Begin
You will find that once the races begin that
most really competent flyers treat their birds every week during
the races. They treat on a 3-4 week rotational basis as follows.
Week One
Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday after the race treat
for canker and cocci.
Week Two
After the race treat Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday
for E. coli.
Week Three
After the race Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday treat
for respiratory. As regards respiratory you can use Doxin-WO or
any combination of Doxycycline plus. You can use Doxycycline at
the dosage of 1500 mg per gallon and Tylan at a dosage of 3000
mg per gallon.
Next Race
Begin again as in week one. You will continue
this program for the 8-10 weeks of both your old and young bird
programs.
There are a thousand other things that you can
do including the use of DMG 2000, Carniplex,, Red Cell, wheat
grass, citric acid, etc.
365 Days of the Year!
The reality is if you can keep canker and cocci
under control 365 days per year. Keep the birds clean and dry
and treat as directed during the races, and you will improve considerably
your performance (regardless of the quality or lack of same) of
your birds. Give it a try. You will notice the difference immediately.